In a recent trip to Europe, however, I didn’t have to go out or look far to view excellent works of art. Right in a modest Spanish hotel where I stayed—Melia Fernan Gonzales Boutique Hotel in Burgos—I was surprised to see authentic colonial antiques as well as faithfully reproduced sacred art scattered all over the hotel premises.
It is obvious that the hotel has imbibed the sense of history of this city. Burgos began as a fortified city and was a major stop for pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostela. It has also been the site of many wars: against the Moors, Napoleonic French and the Spanish civil war. Its Gothic Cathedral—just a stone’s throw away from the hotel—is beautifully preserved and so are the numerous ecclesiastical monuments that dot the place—more than any other Spanish city.
Upon entering the Lobby, the first thing that I saw was a beautifully polychromed image of our Lady with the Child Jesus.
The centerpiece of the hotel lobby is this beautiful antique Nativity tableaux encased in a protective glass urna to secure it from overzealous santo art lovers like me. I had to admire this set with exquisite gilt work first--the hotel key can wait!
A solo image of a naked Salvador del Mundo--which I wanted to bring home-- stands guard at the Lobby Lounge. This is an obvious reproduction, but still excellently made.
Going up my 2nd floor room, I saw this old painting of Crucified Christ, which reminded me of the old Cuzco style of painting popular in Peru.
En route to the restaurant for my breakfast, an antique cabinet displayed various religious vestments--chasubles, a cope and dalmatic--some heavily embroidered, others with great floral appliques.
Next to this dramatically-lit cabinet was this large santo base that had lots of charming little cherub carvings with amazing details. This base was displayed as is, sans a santo, perhaps to show off the artistry that went into this exquisite piece.
There was a big detalyado San Agustin image at the exit of the restaurant, a very impressive piece. It was missing its staff and mitre though, but the detailed church on his left hand was intact.
At another lounge, I gazed at this folk-looking Madonna that adorned a plain brick red wall. It reminded me so much of the Black Madonna of Montserrat which was also on my agenda, but this one has a fair encarna. There is a Gothic feel to it...
On this same wall was this painting on a gilt frame that looked like the Mother of Perpetual Help without the angel attendants.
Flanking this piece was this San Juan Bautista complete with his sheepskin loincloth. If this were mine, I would add a base and a banner and use it as a processional santo instead of hanging it on a wall.
Adjacent to this inner lounge was the main dining section that featured more vibrant colonial pieces. This retablo housing our Lady and the Child Jesus was a real stunner; the rococo decorations are outstanding:
Finally, at the restaurant downstairs, a niche housed this ancient San Pedro tabletop santo, which would look perfect on my antique mesa altar.
Sadly, I stayed only for a day at the hotel. I would have wanted to explore the Swimming Pool. Goodness what I would have discovered there. A carved retablo diving board perhaps, or an antique kneeling angel lamp post. When you are travelling, wonders never cease, there's always a surprise at every bend. And that's what I found at this small boutique hotel on a narrow street in Burgos.
(6 November 2008)
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